September 1st;
We set off in bright sunshine. Martin detects a lobster pot dragging under the boat,
turns off the engine {no wind today either} and goes under with scuba gear and a fearsome-looking
knife to cut the rudder free. I stagger from side to side of the stationary boat as it rocks around.
I vomit over the side into exquisite green-blue water, feeling worse than I have all week.
Martin emerges from under the boat, lobster pot successfully detached, and we set off again,
pulling in five hours later at another
port, the one where we are to meet Wendy. The corner bar facing a row of palm trees and
the sea, right under the blue-painted stucco archway into the marina, buzzes with energy
and good-looking Spanish girls. As the sky goes dark I slowly recover from the day's nausea over
some lemonade beers and local snacks such as dates wrapped in bacon.
August 31st;
Medium day of motoring, since there's no wind today. We dock in a marina in
a
small town and we try an Indian restaurant
patronised by the local British-in-Spain, 'Pride of India'. Although the
restaurant is empty, excellent food. Martin does impressive Spanish, chatting to
coastguards and harbour masters on his walkie-talkie as we chug into ports each day.
August 30th;
Long day of sailing, quite sea-sick, despite
pills.
Big rolling waves pitch the boat. Bright sunshine. In between me lying down up on deck,
or adopting the foetal position for hours on end down below deck, Martin & I continue our ongoing
chat in snatches about life: what it's for and how to live it well.
August 29th;
More sailing. We anchor off somewhere, and take the dinghy into
a beach
by a town. Launching
a dinghy against surf turns out quite hard even with a friendly Spaniard helping us.
His children come up and say hello with appealing straightforwardness and lack of
self-consciousness while Daddy and Martin and I stumble around in the pebbles fighting
to push the dinghy out against breaking waves while starting the outboard motor.
Feel quite sea-sick much of day. Beautiful colours in the water, greenish light
turquoise near land, and a clear, pale-blue-ink colour out at sea.
In the quiet of the night when we are anchored at last
I read Martin's copy of
'Hegel:
A very Short Introduction' by Peter Singer of
'Animal
Liberation' fame. A very clear introduction
indeed. Singer sketches out Hegel's theory of history and social will in beautifully
crisp, careful sentences. I must read more by Singer. Perhaps even more by Hegel.
August 28th;
We set sail. Despite taking
sea-sickness
pills, am very ill & weak. Once anchored, Martin and I watch a video documentary about
Derrida, with
the sly old fox being shrewd with his interviewers
and sections of his writing voiced over. Intriguing glimpse.
August 27th;
Wake up late, get to Sailing Club bar to find Martin chatting by Skype with video
with Szilvi in Budapest on his laptop. Tomorrow's World has finally arrived then.
In bright sun, a large military ship is parked alongside the
restaurant for a couple of days, bristling with radar dishes, and today, coloured
pennants, visible through the wall of glass just past our breakfast tables.
He orders me a curious
mixture of coffee and brandy - a sort of Iberian Irish coffee with more kick.
August 26th;
Day of getting used to Martin's boat, and the heat. Pop into Cartagena
trying to find a shop with one or two items. Martin tells me
Cartagena was
founded by Carthaginians, hence the name.
August 25th;
Flight to Alicante goes smoothly. Arrive at the airport slightly dazed, queue up
for bus to Murcia. Hot, relentless sun bakes every surface. Spaniards stand around
being relaxed with who they are. At the busstop, a pretty girl in sunglasses
stands motionless for about half an hour, an old man comes up, they speak and kiss
briefly, he goes, and then I see she is quietly sobbing behind her shades. I ask
if she is all right, she says yes thanks, so I leave her to her grief. Get bus to
Murcia. I wander round
their bus station swimming through the heat, then, twenty minutes before my 2nd bus,
the one from there to Cartagena, I realise my mobile phone must have slipped out of
my pocket. This contains the only record I have of how to
get to where Martin is in Cartagena. The bus ladies are very kind. We search the
bus - no luck. Then one bus lady phones my phone, and it turns out to have been
handed into the ticket office. Smiles & hugs all round. I get on the bus to
Cartagena, with still ten minutes to spare. Wander around Cartagena a bit, then
Martin meets me beside a submarine. There is
a big sailing race happening, and
we walk along the jetty lined with parked yachts. He points out various expensive,
stripped-down vessels built purely for strength, lightness, and speed.
August 24th;
Fruitful meeting with Roger out in Saffron Walden, followed by a visit to
Notting Hill Gate with Exotic Girl 1. She visits one telecom office, I visit
another. Am told that no, having deactivated my year-old wireless modem,
Vodafone feel
no obligation to give my back the fifteen pounds I gave them. They get to
keep that. Strangely, ten pounds in phone calls to their useless help desk last
night will go unrefunded too. The help desk were unable to tell me that my modem
SIM card was no longer in service. Finish Mystery Friend 2's copy of
'Strange
Days Indeed', a curious account of the 1970s by Francis Wheen. Wheen gives
Nixon several chapters as opposed to one chapter on Mao. He also seems to have
learned a very significant lesson from the 70s: paranoia is usually silly.
I know he also wrote a book about 'mumbo jumbo' so an overall view he has of
the 70s jumps into focus: a time of intrigue, chaos, paranoia, conspiracy
theories, terrorism, gullibility about the supernatural, UFOs and so on. The quote
he includes of the rambling Harold Wilson telling a couple of journalists that
he saw himself as the
"big fat spider in the corner of the room"
is priceless, and the hold that his secretary Marcia had over Wilson seems completely
unexplained by Wheen's breezy account. Punk rockers get no mention, Callaghan and
the IMF are briefly touched on, and what this is really is an account of the early
70s. The chapter-ending last word on page 141 is "divorcee", meaning Ronald
Reagan. There are very few typos like that, but perhaps a
basic superficiality in how Wheen brings the decade together. I turn the
light out, and as I wait to fall asleep visions of similar triangles pirouette
before my inner eye. Really very well behaved triangles, all things considered.
August 23rd;
Meet Ray for a late breakfast at his studio, find Melanie in time to eat cakes
and discuss plasma, and experience nagging problems with
Vodafone, who don't seem
to want to turn the fifteen pounds I gave them into an internet connection.
I read Mystery Friend 2's copy of
'Das
Kapital: a biography' by Francis Wheen, a
short and readable tale both of how long it took Marx to write the book, and what
the book says in Wheen's view. Wheen portrays Marx's pomposity and obsessive
procrastination comically, but also makes a case for Marx as a visionary, literary
thinker with a unique grasp of the power of capital, a sort of all-entangling
organism of almost unstoppable power. Wheen seems unaware that the English socialist
Thomas Hodgskin
had the idea that profit was theft from labour two decades before Marx. It slowly becomes
clear that Wheen, like Marx, doesn't really understand economics. As he cobbles together his
pseudo-science, the fact that people with power cruelly use people without power is greeted
by Marx as a symptom of a new and unique force, when it is really just a sad old fact about
human nature. His ideas about profit are wholly confused. Marx and Wheen both seem unable
to grasp that their belief that labour is compressed into production and somehow stolen by
the mark-up {the only thing that makes any trade possible} is at least as occult and mystical
as belief in spoon-bending. Marx proposes, though fails to realise he proposes, a kind of
alternative pricing system to measure real value which would somehow replace the two-party
price-haggling we have now. Perhaps I'm being unfair, but my memory of reading a large chunk
of Das Kapital was of encountering a rambling polemic by someone struggling to
grasp and analyse a topic substantially beyond him. This might explain
why Marx was so appalling with money in his own life - Wheen reveals that at one
point he is being paid four pounds a week in the mid-19th century by a New York
newspaper, a huge amount of money at the time. Marx's inability to manage his
personal finances despite high income like this and the loyal largesse of Engels casts
very strong doubts on the profundity of the insights into money & economics he credits
himself with. No wonder he wasted a year feuding with a German academic sharp
enough to call Marx a charlatan - that accusation must have been unnervingly close
to the bone. Marx emerges as a kind of crank social theorist. His theory posits a self-sustaining
conspiracy without conscious conspirators so as to make it sound more serious, like a force of
nature or history, a sort of social geology. This is an intellectually upmarket
version of the widespread belief in 1840s and 1850s Europe that secret societies like
the freemasons steered politics: literally antisemitism for pseuds. Wheen dismisses Samuelson's
point that Marx was wrong on the absolute immiseration of the proletariat by digging
out a line from Kapital justifying that Marx actually meant relative immiseration
of the proletariat. Like the notion of relative poverty: a much more comfortable
position for embattled left-wingers to defend. Yet he fails to notice that this is
false too, and that the proletariat has vastly improved its relative as well as
absolute position since Marx designated himself a prophet of imminent disaster a
century and a half ago. Recent revivals in inequality relate less to now well-paid
proletarians than to increases in earnings gaps between big capitalists and small
capitalists, alongside the gap between well-paid proletarians and less well-paid
proletarians. It's hard to claim they show working-class immiseration, even in the reduced
version modern socialists retreat to. The fact that people work much longer hours
now than in the 1970s is taken by Wheen as confirmation that Marx was right all
along, not as confirmation that proletarian earning power is now sufficiently high
that many people believe they can enrich themselves by voluntarily doing extra paid
employment {or that the arrival of personal computers in the 1980s was the early beginnings
of wage-earners purchasing productive machinery with their enlarged wages}. Worrying to
see that Marx's failure to understand what savings and profits generated by machinery are
lingers on. It even strikes a moderately bright person like Wheen as rational and
completely unlike the paranoid, conspiratorial mood of the 1970s {Wheen's other book
I'm reading}. The paranoia of the 1970s and since that Wheen mocks is
the clearest sign I can think of that Marxist mumbo jumbo has infected all of us.
August 22nd;
Fly to London, arrive at Mystery Friend 2's flat. We dine on Turkish food and watch
'High
Plains Drifter'. Lots of symbolic, epic moments as the mythic archetypes stand
tall in the harsh light of the American West.
August 21st;
Last day of packing before travel. I print a packing list, sensible boy that I am.
Then pizzafication with Marguerite
& Kati.
August 20th;
The
usual
annoying king/god/saint holiday I forget each year when shops are all
shut just when I need them to be open. Changing printers will massively
inconvenience me, but I switch
to these
people. Amazingly, a woman from their firm actually phones me from Britain,
on my mobile, without me even asking her to. Why was I so patient with
the other wankers?
I ring the old firm to ask for my 400 quid back, get the man himself on the
phone for the first time ever. He asks why I'm breaking the contract - I say he
makes me feel like a nuisance, not a customer. He protests I'm not a nuisance,
but he doesn't offer any last-minute deal or apology. He must think
it normal to keep someone waiting a week who's deposited money
with him and sent him book files and clearly wants to get the printing
process started. Feeling of futile
rage all day at other people's inability to just do their job properly.
How can I cheer up?
Try to think goodthoughts.
August 19th;
I've finally had it with
this
printer. It was so obvious from his secretary's voice that
he was never going to phone me back, even though I've been waiting 7 days to talk
to him, and he's been sitting on my 400 pound deposit for weeks. Unwind a little
with Franc after dark after a second class with Annamari - amusingly
shrunk from 12 students on Tuesday to 5 students tonight. Not just me who thought
she was tough then.
August 18th;
Last night, an unexpected switch of aerobics dominatrix, and the supple, lissome
Annamari takes us through a truly excruciating set of exercises. A bit intense
after what was nonetheless a gentle morning swim. I try reading up on the
alleged 'endorphin
deficient' condition. Sounds a lot like me.
August 17th;
Extended lunch with Marion, after my first
morning swim in ages.
August 16th;
Ilan comes over
and we have some soup at the Chinese restaurant.
August 15th;
British Gas still stubbornly pretend I owe
them money. In fact they owe me money. Total lack of shame, these sly
utilities. Even when I catch them out lying they then concoct a new
story claiming I owe them money. They insisted their 2009 estimate was a real reading
while claiming the real inspection one of their meter readers did on June 19th
this year was an estimate. Surprise, surprise, this was because the June reading
showed that their bills are 1300 kW hours too high.
August 14th;
Apparently many New York women's ex-boyfriends
look
like this. Humour aside, girls, if he was that gross, why didn't you choose
someone good-looking to start with? By night meet Edith for dinner at the Mexican
restaurant.
August 13th;
At last, send in text and cover to printer in England. Suddenly feel free. Lula
sends me links to some wonderfully raucous sixties songs by
The Pretty Things and
The Spencer Davis Group. I weakly
reply with Larry & The Blue Notes
and The Misunderstood.
In the early evening I finish a short book by Paul Krugman, titled
'Development,
Geography, and Economic Theory' adapted from a 1992 lecture
series. Krugman argues in favour of mathematical models in economics, saying that
people who think they do better economics by avoiding models usually overlook the
mistakes in their own thinking that a rigorous model would have forced them to
confront. Better some kind of simplified, imperfect model than no model at all.
At the same time, he appears to regret the false starts in postwar
development economics and economic geography that were caused by (a) those
economists' inability to create a proper mathematical model for their insights,
and (b) other economists' unwillingness to look at any new theory without a
quantitative model underlying it. He uses two interesting metaphors. Maps of Africa
went from being messily, vaguely, partly right when the interior was filled with hearsay
about reported rivers, but as cartography got more rigorous & sceptical over evidence,
the effect was to actually empty the interior of Africa, and through the 18th century
the maps got blanker before filling up again with better-researched data. Likewise, as
meteorology went from folk science to proper science, there was a hiatus of a century
or so as folk wisdom about clouds was neglected in favour of exact measurements, only
for later meteorologists to re-examine the old folk myths and find that in fact shapes
of clouds predict the coming weather very well. Obviously the maps better favour his
argument that the development of economics unfortunately led to neglect of folksier
ideas until the mathematical substructure was ready to refound them systematically, since
maps represent things that stay the same and can wait to be rediscovered. With weather
he is already treading on thinner ice, and the extension to economics, where people's
beliefs about economic clouds and winds actually form part of the substance of those
clouds and winds, looks more tenuous still. Though the main thrust of this early-90s
book seems innocently sensible and rational, in retrospect this might be seen as a
pre-Black-&-Scholes-failure book. The Black & Scholes options-pricing model was admired
by financiers and academics, but proved extraordinarily wrong by events a couple of years
after they won the Nobel Prize for it. Theirs looks very much like a case where having
some kind of numerically testable and theory-supported quantitative model most certainly
was worse than having no model at all. However even if these lectures and this book
come from before derivatives pricing fell apart, Krugman's text might have warned
a few acute readers. Across the sunlit uplands of clearcut model-design, one or
two hints of academic hauteur glint in his authorial voice. Krugman shifts
from showing emotional attachment to sheer tidiness {"And yet
what a difference a clean model makes." on page 86, or
"The von Thunen model ...is a beautiful thing."
on page 53, repeated almost word for word twelve pages later}, to patronising {"No - the moral of my tale is nowhere near that easy."
page 65}, and on to sneering sarcasm {"Are you sure
you really have such deep insights that you are better off turning your back on the
cumulative discourse among generally intelligent people that is modern economics? But
of course you are."} In being transformed from lectures into book,
about thirty footnotes in the course of the text would have been a very good idea,
giving short summaries and definitions of ideas and terms he refers to, instead of
the 5 or 6 paragraphs of non-helpful notes on pages 109-110.
August 12th;
It's been agonising days/weeks of checking & rechecking
the book. I keep finding new
errors now.
August 9th;
Finish Yates book {with its strange cover art showing two cardboard boxes} on
'Giordano
Bruno & the Hermetic Tradition'. This is a careful
excavation of all the peculiar ideas in the mix at the start of the 17th century and
the dawn of modern quantitative science. Yates convincingly shows that Bruno, a
Dominican from Naples, was burned alive at the stake in 1600 not for supporting
Copernican astronomy and not for suggesting an infinite universe of other planets
{though he did both}. Rather he was executed for
advocating a return to Egyptian magic, and enthusiastically promoting Cabalism,
Hermeticism, and a kind of sun-centred astrological cult in Italy, France, England,
and Germany. Yates reveals Bruno's hostility to maths, and shows he mainly supported
Copernicus's heliocentric system because he identified the sun as The One of
neo-Platonic mysticism. She argues that the wrong turn of Renaissance reverence
for the writings attributed to Hermes
Trismegistus {wrongly thought until textual analysis by the scholar Casaubon in
1614 to be of greater antiquity than Plato or Jesus} helped turn scholars' attention
to the direct study of nature. That is to say, a craze for nature magic among
Renaissance magi paved the way for the rise of mechanical experimentation. The era closes
with Marin
Mersenne's struggles in the 1620s to remove magic from serious discussion. This was a
far cry from the strange intellectual ferment among southern Italy's Dominicans in the
1550s and 60s that Yates detects. Younger than Bruno by twenty years {sometimes they were
even in the same prisons for a few overlapping weeks, unknown to each other} came another
Dominican, Tomasso
Campanella. He actually led a popular revolution in 1599 in southern Italy
to try {and fail} to throw out the Spanish rulers of the south and set up
a 'City of the Sun' in Calabria, a Utopian pantheistic/semi-Christian city state
along Hermetic lines. The mood shifts and Europe becomes cooler, more rational.
Descartes himself shifts from a
vaguely occultist, Rosicrucian outlook in a couple of years to becoming more interested
in strictly mathematical modelling of nature. Yet even in this increasingly uncongenial
new age, Campanella somehow stays alive, surviving prison and torture. He keeps reshaping
his peculiar Sun-City mysticism, very similar to Bruno's in many details. He lives long
enough to die a natural death at the French court where he has managed to talk his way
into Cardinal
Richelieu's team. In his last days, Campanella is recommending Richelieu and anyone
who will listen that when he grows up the boy who will be Louis XIV should be hailed as the
"Sun King".
August 8th;
The Silver Key, by H.P. Lovecraft.
Fascinating, the New World obsession with their lost Old World past.
August 7th;
Pasta with Marguerite and her adorable dog Emma. She tells me of one US trial judge
who reprimanded a woman in court for wearing red shoes, and when she wore them
again the next day sent her down for contempt. Meanwhile,
this must be why the Met
shot Menezes 7 times in the head.
It's hard to be sure these days.
August 6th;
Yet more proof-reading.
I might be about to turn into a semicolon.
August 3rd;
Proofread book more. Some striking photos of
flowers
seen by X-ray. Eerie, delicate.
August 2nd;
Proofread book. In the middle of the sofa, a piece of metal wire seems about to
poke through the green fabric covering. It feels, when I sit on it, like it is
the thickness of a broken spring. This is obviously not a good development. Mind
you, entropy in this building isn't too bad. Ten days ago, one of the front steps
had a big six-inch shard of tile detached, lying next to it. It was like that
for three days, then mended as good as new. So well repaired I now cannot recall
which of the steps had the damage before. Patient man
who works in curved
paper, {nice dog} though a lot of the images are a bit cluttered for my
taste. Been meaning to try this form myself for years, but am still too lazy.
We do - otherlanguages.org is
gradually building a
reference resource for over five thousand
linguistic minorities and
stateless languages worldwide.
Thousands of unique language
communities are becoming extinct.
Out of the world's five to six thousand languages, we hardly know
what we're losing, what literatures, philosophies, ways of thinking, are disappearing right now.
So?
We may soon regret the
extinction of thousands of entire
linguistic cultures even more than we
regret the needless extinction
of many animals and plants.
The planet is increasingly dominated by
a handful of
major-language monocultures like Mandarin
Chinese,
Hindi, Arabic,
Indonesian, Urdu, Spanish, Portuguese,
English, Swahili, Russian, Cantonese Chinese, Japanese, Bengali - all
beautiful and fascinating
languages.
But so are the
5,000 others.
These are groups of
people?
Linguistic minorities are communities
of ordinary people whose
native tongue is not their country's main
official language. Swedish
speakers in Finland, French speakers in
Canada, Hungarian speakers
in Slovakia - and hundreds more - are
linguistic minorities.
And totally stateless languages are the
native languages of some
of the world's most intriguing,
little-known, cultures. Like the
Lapps inside the Arctic Circle, the Sards
in Sardinia, Ainus in Japan. Cherokee in the US, Scots
Gaelic in Britain, Friesian in the
Netherlands, Zulu in South Africa.
There are only a couple of hundred recognised sovereign states and
territories, so more than 5,000 languages are the native tongues of
linguistically stateless people.
How
could I help?
You don't need to learn an endangered
language - any more than go to live in the rainforest to help slow its
destruction.
A good start is to just tell friends
about websites like this.
Broader public interest makes it easier
for linguists to raise
funds and organise people to learn these
languages while there's
time.
That's right. There
are people who love
languages and are happy to learn them on
behalf of the rest of us, but they need support,
just like zoologists, botanists, or historians.
Fewer languages still
sounds good to
me
Depends what you think languages
are for. They're not just
a tool for business. We never said you
should learn three or four thousand
rare languages - or even one. And which
ones we make children learn in school, or whether we
should force children to learn languages
at all, is another question.
Typical scene in a European city;
Chances are, folk here speak some sort of foreign
language *5
A century ago - before we understood
ecology, and when we cared
less about wilderness, most educated
people would have laughed at
the idea of worrying about plants or
animals going extinct. Now we
understand how important species diversity
is for our own futures,
we are more humble, and more worried.
In the same way, linguistic
triumphalism by English-speakers who
hated studying foreign grammar at school
is dangerously ignorant as
well as arrogant. Few of us know what we
are losing, week by week.
How many people realise these languages
have scientific value?
Scientific value?
You can think of these languages across
the planet as beautiful cathedrals or
precious archeological sites
we are watching being destroyed. That
should be motive enough.
But these five thousand languages may
also hold clues to the
structure of the human mind. Subtle
differences and similarities
Wireless radio can be a great comfort to those unable
to leave the
textbooks in which they live *6
between languages are helping
archeologists and anthropologists to
understand what happened in the hundreds
of centuries of human
history before written history. And
that is one of our best
chances of understanding how human brains
developed over the
thousands of centuries leading up to that.
Study of the mind and study of language
go hand in hand these
days. The world's most marginal languages
are actually precious
jigsaw pieces from an overall picture of
who we are and how our
species thinks and evolves. Every tiny
language adds another
brightly-coloured clue to this academic
detective story.
Yet researchers have hardly started
sifting through this
tantalising evidence, and language
extinction is washing it away
right in front of us.
And worst of all, most people have no
idea that there is this
fantastic profusion of cultures across our
world, let alone that
they are in danger of extinction. Even
just more people learning
that there are still five thousand living
languages in the world
today (most of us would answer five
hundred or fifty) is already a
huge help.
We
English-speakers hardly notice
English - it's like air for us. But every
other language is also an
atmosphere for an entire cultural world,
and each of these worlds
has people whose home it is. Each language
encapsulates a unique
way of talking and thinking about life.
Just try some time in a
foreign prison, being forced to cope in
another language, and you'll
realise how much your own language is your
identity. That's true for
everyone.
Minority languages are a
human-rights
issue?
One of the most basic.
Dozens of millions of people worldwide
suffer persecution from
national governments for speaking their
mother tongue - in their own
motherland.
Many 'ethnic' feuds puzzling to
outsiders had as their basis an
attempt to destroy a linguistic community.
Would the Northern
Ireland dispute be quite so bitter if we
English had not so nearly
stamped out the Irish Gaelic language, for
example? Almost nowhere
in the world does a language community as
small as the few thousand
Rheto-Romanic speakers - the fourth
official language of Switzerland
- get the protection of a national
government. Next time you see some Swiss Francs, check both sides of the
banknote.
But outside exceptional countries like
Switzerland or the Netherlands, speakers of non-official
languages have a much less
protected experience.
Speakers of minority languages are
often seen as a threat by both
the governments and the other residents of
the countries where they
were born, grew up, and try to live
ordinary lives.
They experience discrimination in the
job and education markets
of their homelands, often having no choice
but to pursue education
in the major language of the host state -
a deliberate government
policy usually aimed at gradually
absorbing them into the majority
culture of that country.
Most governments are privately gleeful
each time another small
separate culture within their borders is
snuffed out by a dwindling
population or a deliberately centralising
education system.
The United Nations is no help. It is an
association of a couple
of hundred sovereign states based on
exclusive control of territory,
almost all of them anxious to smother any
distinct group or
tradition that in any way might blur or
smudge the hard-won borders
around those pieces of territory.
The usual approach by sovereign states
is to deny their
linguistic minorities even exist.
-
Mark Griffith, site administrator /
contact at
otherlanguages.org
July 28th;
Small hours of the morning, listen to Melvyn Bragg's radio show, this time about
Abelard
& Heloise. Hadn't realised that Abelard was such a major
logician, or that Heloise knew Greek & Hebrew much better than him. This
morning I woke out of a dream where I am chatting in a library with a charming
grey-haired woman who is a historian of 14th and 15th century Paris. Yesterday
I woke out of a dream where I was at a congress of cartoonists somewhere. A few
days ago, I woke out of a wonderfully detailed dream about clans, gangs, heraldry,
and families through history. Curious.
July 27th;
Much cooler, damper weather. Not like last week when I sat in on a meeting about
this digital artist's
website, got home, then collapsed. Today, in the sauna, chat with two women about
suntans. One woman compliments the other on her beautiful tan {the younger blonde's
smooth skin is a soft creamy coffee colour} and they agree on the obvious point
that solarium tans differ visibly from natural tans, but the blonde then suggests
an interesting extra distinction: freshwater and saltwater tans. She says her tone
comes from tanning at Lake Balaton. I ask her if it might also be the quality of
the light reflected off fresh versus salt water, not just the salt or lack of salt
on the skin, but she has no theory of why the tans differ. She just sees they do.
July 26th;
A friend in a reading group contributes to
this legal weblog.
July 25th;
Anonymous Slav meets me on way to airport to hand over keys.
Fascinating
article about "caring professions" and {says the author} the
end of friendship & love, at least in American culture.
July 24th;
Much cooler this morning - which is odd, since my three thermometers say it
is still 82 Farenheit. I only needed the electric fan for 15 minutes last night,
but I have it in reserve for when serious heat returns. In case Gentle Reader
is wondering why it took me this long to buy one, I should say I never found
heat difficult to take before. I also got extremely ill in the summer of 2001
from a panning fan in an office repeatedly chilling the sweat on my neck, so
have been rather wary of mechanical cooling devices since.
A
nice summary of mass extinctions found by Zdravko, though I wish they
had kept the first two billion years to scale, squashing all complex life
into the rightmost fifth of the graphic, where it belongs. I love the
'Oxygen Apocalypse'.
July 23rd;
The heat continues. Last night I was unable to make it to three appointments,
and just lay on the sofa under a single sheet, wheezing like a walrus.
The calcium pills seem to be slowly taking the heat rash off my arms, but
the curtains have been shut for three days now. All air seems to have
the texture of warm meat. In the afternoon, I pass out for about an hour
before going to see Regina about page design. The curtains are perhaps eight
inches short of the floor, so even with them closed, a horizontal band of
daylight of such harsh brightness comes into my room that it's as if my
entire balcony is being arc-welded. Locals outside have the kind of witless
street quarrel they do sometimes round here, grunting voices bouncing off
the buildings and coming through my wide-open balcony door draped in
closed curtain. One of them is banging a car bonnet for emphasis, and as
I slide into sleep {more like being anaesthetised than dozing off} their
noises sound increasingly animal-like. Even with the curtains shut,
behind my eyelids I can tell when a small cloud slides across the sun, and
as the brightness across the floor gets powerfully bright again, I can see
with eyes shut a shimmering sheet of beaten gold. I
start imagining that a cosmic gourmet has me paralysed but still juicy
in my dark little flat while he heats up a pan outdoors to fry me in
liquid sunshine; "sealing in the goodness", he might say. I wake
exactly on time after one hour of this feverish, delirious sleep and get
to Regina's air-conditioned office somehow. We do some work on the book,
and she advises me to buy a fan. Later I wander stupidly round Tesco and
purchase an electric twirly thing and somehow get it home and assemble it.
It's actually quite well-designed, and I don't need to refer to the
instructions in Polish, Hungarian, Czech, or Slovak, to put it together
and switch it on in about ten minutes.
Mustn't grumble - weather promises to cool a little,
the plump pharmacist lady was right to prescribe me calcium pills, and
djuice/Pannon apologised some days back
by giving me five complimentary gigabytes.
I got called over a week ago by the curvy blonde Evi, who tries to
switch into Hungarian with me {despite my policy of speaking
only English when I am the Righteous Customer},
and is wonderfully giggly & girly. As so
often, this stereotype of the cuddly dizzy blonde appears to understand
the price packages and the software better than anyone else at the
djuice showroom {she used to work at the Mammut mall when Mariannpsy
went with me to open an account}. The other staff keep having to call
her up for help if she's not there, and I can't be sure, but I get the
strong impression that she's the manageress. See her there two days ago
to be placated with my customer gift. She is wearing
something so far off one shoulder it actually restricts her moving her
arms around. Sometimes she sticks her tongue out with concentration
as she {correctly} punches keys and shows the others what to do on the
computer system.
Seemingly the only version of 'Disk Warrior' by the Raiders I can find
not remixed by the Nasty Boyz
is this one
accompanying a heatstruck-looking beach-themed fashion show in Brazil.
One tanned mannequin jumps out - she's unable to keep the
cat-got-the-cream grin off her face. It's no surprise when at the end
where all the girls are applauding the swimwear designer, she reaches out a
long supple arm, yanks the designer over and gives him a rather confident,
dominant kiss on his neck. I can't be entirely sure, but I seem to see a
quick cascade of reactions flicker across his face as she does this,
going through initial shock, an instinct to pull away he represses an instant
later, eyebrows twitching in a isn't-this-a-bit-public-sweetie? way, and a
decision to stay cool and whisper a quick warning in her ear as
if nothing has happened.
In case any doubt is left which mannequin is riding the designer,
she then blows kisses at the audience afterwards as if she's the hostess
of the whole event. Perhaps I'm seeing things which aren't there.
July 22nd;
Adorable little
metallic
hedgehog photo via
Nicolas:
it's a cheese grater!
July 21st;
Finally, an aerobics class led by the
notorious Trixi. She's not at all how I expected. Far from being the
sadistic elf made of steel cable I imagined, she is a broad-shouldered,
cheerful, tanned lass carrying a few extra pounds round the middle. The
session was certainly very rigorous, but Trixi's essentially just a big,
strong girl who can go for miles. No wonder the taut little dainty ones
hate her and fear her. A film actor called Mel Gibson has been taped
saying rude things on the telephone, and the United States is strangely
shocked. Those of us who thought that aggressive vulgarity was
actually required before an American was allowed to become famous might
be puzzled, but here is a
gently-modified trailer for one of Mr Gibson's old films, overlaid with
some of his special thoughts. Serves him right for making an anti-British
propaganda film like 'Braveheart', as if there weren't enough lies about
our history already.
July 20th;
Strange
rash up my arms. The heat? No itching, but looks a bit alarming.
July 19th;
Virginia at DeepGlamour
says that George Hurrell is the photographer who took pictures of film actresses
like this,
and Julius Shulman is the photographer who took pictures of modern architecture
like this.
July 16th;
Finish off the shortened-length-version
Karinthy work.
Getting a sense of the aerobics instructors and their styles. Zsuzsa is young & perky,
with a steely edge to her routines. Kinga is pretty, supple, fleet of foot, and enjoys
us not quite being able to keep up with her. Anita seems older, calmer, and steadier,
though still rigorous. Only the dreaded Trixi, tomorrow, remains untried. The girls at
the desk told me clearly that Trixi is the most severe & demanding, at least in the
step aerobics sessions. I have been warned.
July 15th;
I proofread a translation of turn-of-the-century novelist Frigyes Karinthy; so says
this
page he originated the "six degrees of separation" concept. Not sure
I believe that, but some clever readable prose about i) being operated on for
a brain tumour, and ii) being a schoolboy again.
July 14th;
Rather wearying heat continues. Above
85 Farenheit indoors, day & night.
July 13th;
1st morning lesson with Qazaq teacher goes well. She explains that 'father',
'to bring', 'mother' and 'to take' are ake, akelu, ana,
alu and she giggles when I flippantly speculate that this
suggests the root of 'father' is 'bringer', and the root of 'mother' is
'taker'. The sounds of the letters are pleasingly soft on the ear.
In the afternoon, I position a magnifying glass in a cup of water so that it
focuses a spot of sun on a letter from my bank, at the same time as putting
a thermometer out there. Am a little alarmed I might melt the thermometer
case, made of plastic. In the sun, the red fluid goes straight up to
118 Farenheit in about fifteen seconds, and perhaps
only fails to go further because of the pressure of gas inside the last bit of
glass tube, so I bring it back in. Meanwhile, between 4pm and 5pm, the
magnifying glass burns a grey
slot in the bank-letter envelope exactly an inch and a half long and two sheets
of paper deep with some pinholes in the third layer. In the early evening,
I go to another aerobics class. Our instructor, Zsuzsa, is particularly adept at
getting us to do small repetitive movements with one arm or leg until the whole
body part is locked into muscle cramp. In the sauna afterwards a slim blonde
chats in a soft, quiet voice with a solidly built man with dark hair. I have this
absurdly vivid conviction that he is married, but not to her. As I step out of
the shower, she is murmuring to him and coaxingly stroking the back of his neck
down just between his shoulder blades with one hand. None of my business in
any case. In the heat at night, I have unpleasant
dreams where I visualise lots of burnt lines in paper, laid out like teeth of a
comb, tracking the movement of the sun on different days of the summer as the
earth revolves minute by minute and orbits the sun day by day. The core of these
slightly delirious dreams is wondering if the burnt strips can be visualised as
part of a helix {joining up with the paths they can be imagined to trace out at
night} and if so, how big the loops of the spring would be.
July 12th;
It's so warm here in Budapest that I buy three cheapo thermometers at a
bargain shop. All three of them claim it is between 82 and 84 degrees
Farenheit day and night, so I pop one in the fridge and it goes down to freezing,
suggesting they are working after all. I go to the Toastmasters meeting and pay
homage in my 7-minute talk to schoolteacher Reverend Berry's knowledge of the
Indian subcontinent.
In particular the way he told me when I stopped him in a queue for lunch in the
late 70s and asked him about Indira Gandhi's arrest for corruption that
"India cannot do without her - she'll be back in power within
three years" and how when our class challenged him to say
in the first week of January 1980 how Afghanistan would go, he confidently
stated "the Afghans will defeat the Soviet Union and
it will take them ten
years to do it, the same length of time it took them to defeat us."
July 11th;
In a way which is a bit hard to explain, the rust stripe around my pine tabletop
while I was away seems to have blurred in the same heat that killed my herbs.
When I got back some days ago, I could see on the table how the sweat from my forearm
{mainly the right forearm} over weeks in April & May had bleached a sort of halo into
the rust stripe at each end. Though.... I don't know how I didn't notice that before,
unless the sweat took time to seep through the sun-baked table and react with the rust,
so the sweat-bleaching in that case took effect while I was in England. In other places,
rust brown seems to have bled out into the wax-soaked pale areas like ink seeping across
a very slow kind of blotting paper. I bought & sliced a lemon yesterday and repaired
the sharpness of the rust stripe edge in places.
The obvious painter to go with composer
JohnTavener
{The mid-name r must have been put down to avoid confusion with 'John Taverner',
presumably} surely has to be
CecilCollins?
Both rather lonely-sounding, deliberately-naive English Christian mystics, both
very elegaic. Lots of angels.
July 10th;
I probably ought to print out
Primavera
on foamboard.
July 9th;
I'm relaxing late around 1am, enjoying some talks on
pecha-kucha
when TV Eszter phones me up, as far as I can make out to reproach me for not being
disappointed enough about her cancelling our teahouse meeting at 1 this afternoon.
July 6th;
In the morning, Szilvi comes to pick up some boat bits for Martin, so she can
take them to him in Sardinia in a few days. In the
mid-afternoon, Dorina appears
in cool turquoise
& crisp white to take me to a restful studenty bar run by barefoot Russians one
tramstop away from my flat.
July 5th;
Very hot and sunny here in Pest. All my herbs on the balcony fried up while I was
away, even in their translucent water bath. At an Indian restaurant I finish
'50
Mots Clefs d'Esoterisme' by Michel Mirabail,
a book Mateus approved of me buying in Paris two summers ago. Although the book
is nominally fifty short essays in alphabetical order, it quietly builds up
to a subdued climax with the final three sections {modishly given in lower case
in this 1970s edition}, tarot; telesme {the crucial term in Hermetic alchemy};
tradition. Some rather wonderful black-and-white line diagrams, and the usual
French academic air of coolness & calm.
July 4th;
After the gym I pass, on the other side of the street, a small family group.
The man is carrying a seven-foot model tree, its bark painted in red & black stripes
for realism, along with blue foliage. Yesterday had an
oddly
gentle, weightless mood turning into sweet, sharp dreams.
July 3rd;
Before leaving for the airport, make it a few streets away for a couple of
pints of wonderfully cold stout with Ursula & Phil. This is in a pub which
has been open 175 years but is now going to become part of a luxury housing
block. Fly
to Budapest, meeting delightful, sweet-natured people on the plane and on the
late-night bus into town afterwards.
July 2nd;
Meet Peter the Pianist, an old acquaintance of Marion & Paul, at
Guildhall. He kindly
gives me half an hour of his time, and we briefly chat about music, changing
fashions, and languages - out beside a sunlit oblong pond full of reeds
facing what is apparently the City of London School for Girls. Later in the
day go with Mystery Friend 2 & Exotic Girl 1 to see a Romanian film at a
cinema on Curzon street as part of a Romanian film festival. This film,
'Police,
Adjective', hard to do justice to in print, is about
the painstaking investigation by a detective in a small town of a couple of
teenage boys who smoke hashish. The deadpan humour slowly builds up until
the painfully funny scene near the end. As a man interviewing the director,
Corneliu Porumboiu, on stage afterwards observes, he deliberately breaks
several golden rules of cinema, such as "show, don't tell". Like a
sarcastic Tarkovsky, revelling in the sweet dullness of Eastern Bloc life.
July 1st;
Quiet day getting stuff done, including shopping for ingredients with Exotic
Girl 1. She makes the birthday cake for Mystery Friend 2, while I put the
Hungarian lettering on it. While we check out of the Sainsbury's, Exotic Girl
{like Nigel of Darkness yesterday} insists we use the automated till where
we swipe our own bar codes. At one point, the woman's voice coming out of
the machine suddenly assures us that "Help is on the way" with just the right
intonation. I look around, and a man at the next check-out grins at me. He
remembers the 70s film
'THX1138'
{the film's two catch phrases are "What's wrong?" and "Help is on the way!"}
but no-one else in the hypermegasupermarket obviously does. Another programmer's
joke? In evening drinks, a lawyer friend claims she has an
obsessive-compulsive secretary who is incredibly meticulous, but has a morbid
fear of anything granular {apparently it took her 20 minutes to psych herself
up to cross a sandy track in Hyde Park, and found a sugar-coated doughnut on
her desk a vision of pure horror}, and more intriguing still, has an equally
intense phobia about anything to do with the Tudors. A bit hard to believe,
really. Must investigate.